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Basic Modified Class

Discussion in 'MA' started by Roscoe_tm10, Mar 16, 2019.

  1. Roscoe_tm10

    Roscoe_tm10 Lock Nut

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    This time I tried to run my car with a really basic setup. I didn't cut any part of the chassis (except the body lock, which was my mistake. LOL) and I didn't cut any FRP. All I did was made some countersunk holes and use all plastic rollers which I got straight from the box.

    Screenshot_20190316-155511.png

    Surprisingly, it can run very well with a really high speed!

    You can watch the test run in here:


    For the step by step building tutorial can be watched at these links:
    Part 1:


    Part 2:


    Enjoy!
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
    Skootertrash74, Witti and Drew like this.
  2. ltr74

    ltr74 FRP H-Bar

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    Looks good! I like the more limited class for beginners. We have tuned class here in Los Angeles, but with carbon and ball bearings, the cars can get somewhat expensive. Looks like this basic class deals with cost well.

    Even with the no cutting rules in that class, a body damper system for the front it easy enough to create and should improve the performance. We ran them in tuned until last year when we banned them to make the class more beginner friendly.
     
    Kaybo and Roscoe_tm10 like this.
  3. Roscoe_tm10

    Roscoe_tm10 Lock Nut

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    Yup, I think this class can attract new races to start this hobby since this setup doesn't need too much expensive part but it can still run really fast. I think it'll be better to add motor limitation in this class. But sadly, this class is not that popular in my country.
     
  4. SignOfZeta

    SignOfZeta Spacer

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    HG rollers save a lot of time. However it’s just time. The ball bearings don’t really change handling much, they just reduce friction.

    So you could still build your reversed dual chassis suspended whale tale monster, just do it with plastic rollers, and save...well if you’re buying from Tamiya USA it’s like $60 for a good set of 6-8 rollers. It will be slower but if that’s the class then everyone will be slower. I’d be totally into it. Turning a $7 kit into a $234 race car...seems crazy to a lot of people. I have real cars so if I’m spending more on the Tamiya than I am on my track Miata I start to question my sanity.

    There are quite a few different rollers to use too. I like the solid plastic ones like you get with starter sets.

    The trispoke ones break pretty easily, from my experience. Even a stock Nitrage will break its rollers.

    It would be interesting to compare times between stock style rollers and the ones where you use the brass bush.

    On my track at home a lap on the outside is like 0.8 for a stock car. If you make the car full width it drops a tenth. Adding ball bearing rollers drops another tenth. It’s not really that big of a deal because the Hyper Dash 3 will drop 0.3!
     
    Roscoe_tm10 likes this.
  5. Corweena

    Corweena Spacer

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    This is actually very close to a new class we are trying to start here in California. Ours is limited to the MA chassis, and DCR-02 body, but everything else is very similar. No bearings at all, plastic rollers, and only FRP. And we will be using light dash motors with alkaline batteries. Will be fun once we get enough people to race, since everyone will be running almost the same setup, so only the small changes like what type of plastic rollers, etc will make a difference on how the car runs.
     
    Roscoe_tm10 likes this.
  6. SignOfZeta

    SignOfZeta Spacer

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    Yeah. Breaking in your chassis and tweaking your charge level and inexpensive things like that will be what wins in a class like that.
     
    Md 0098 and Roscoe_tm10 like this.

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