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Bumperless LED unit for MS Chassis Front Bumper Setup

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Kajiren, May 27, 2019.

  1. Kajiren

    Kajiren Screw

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    Hi there! Just got that N03/T03 unit for the MS chassis with that great LED light. We're doing a local "tuned class" setup in the PH that only allows plastic rollers along two unmodified (no cuts) FRPs (the side stays count as one) to be set up along with tuned motors. We're also allowed to use other Tamiya parts, as long as they're not aluminum or HG parts and not modified.

    I'm doing an Avante MKIII Azure (the polycarbonate version) to keep it as lightweight as possible. Is there any way to make the front setup work for downthrust, like additional parts or setup techniques? I've got black Dual Plastic Rollers, and also the 15452 JR rear wide stay as my front bumper.

    We've yet to see the track, though, but as per experience, they're doing a semi-technical setup.

    Hope you'd be able to help.
     
  2. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    I'd recommend checking out Team Flazh (Fu-Rush) on YT, Rangga has a few good videos on more basic setups very similar to what you're wanting to do. He does some pro stock build vids that show how to angle the front rollers by just bending the screws and stuff.

    In regards to using the bumperless unit, it's going to be difficult to setup anything due to the lack of bumper. You'll need to use at least one frp in order to have anywhere to mount rollers.

    Another interesting build to consider if you want to go with the bumperless unit although I'm not sure if they'd allow it even though it's within requirements: http://www.m4race.com/threads/damper-system-compendium.124/page-2#post-3190
     
  3. Kajiren

    Kajiren Screw

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    I've taken a liking to that no-cut suspension build ever since i saw it, but i'm not sure if bending chassis parts are allowed, haha.

    I do have that roller adjuster plate, so I'll see how i can make it work. I haven't had cars flying or suffered tremendous collisions using torque tuned motors in the past, so maybe I'll see how it'll survive with just the rear wide plate as the front bumper. Maybe there's other non-FRP parts I can use to reinforce the front part, like old-school stuff.
     
  4. ltr74

    ltr74 Aluminum Lock Nut

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    To add angle to the front rollers, there is item #15373 Jr Roller Angle Adjuster Plate. The set comes with 1. 2 and 3 degree angle plates. You may need to use both 2 and 3 degree so get enough angle, but it will work.
     
  5. Kajiren

    Kajiren Screw

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    Here's how I initially built it. I used the rear plate as a front plate, and used some Aero parts (which to me, are pretty useless for this setup anyway I think) too. I was told that using the rear plate was not allowed, now I'm stuck with thinking what front plate would be compatible with the MS Bumperless N03 part.

    I got the angle adjuster plates too, but it's not yet installed.

    Lemme take a look at the Fu-Rush channel again. Hope there's a video that can help me solve this.

    61562315_626395707862839_9118655515793031168_n.jpg 61830691_255416668640995_6946370634976854016_n.jpg 61982643_409309626592334_7861367989520564224_n.jpg 61412518_352911398752752_7002218446914060288_n.jpg
     
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  6. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    If you're not allowed to use a rear plate at the front, then maybe you could try mounting the front plastic aero wing on part #15372 (extension sub plate). That's probably the only way to do it. Or you could use those plates to mount a front plate, but then you'll only have the rear aero wing to mount the rollers. It's about all I can come up with for using bumperless.
     
  7. ltr74

    ltr74 Aluminum Lock Nut

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    Now I see that you can only use 2 FRP. The question is how far do you want to push the rules? the aftermarket rear 3 point attachment for S2 and VS has a plastic roller stay that is separate. Use that as your front roller stay and you can get proper down thrust. you can also use it on the rear by mounting the h bar as low as possible(and using it as a brake) and then building up like we normally do on the rear end.

    Screen Shot 2019-05-29 at 6.09.02 PM.png

    There was also something I saw from China where racers used the ball joint from the rear hammer damper set to create the mount for a body damper system.

    Though honestly with a limited tuned class like you posted, your best option is probably an FMA chassis focusing on getting a nice setup on the rear and somehow reinforce the front.
     
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  8. Kajiren

    Kajiren Screw

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    Finally got it working. I was told by the tourney holders that the short reinforcing plates do not count in the number of FRPs used. Also discovered a way to downthrust the front plate too. Not sure if it's supposed to weigh like so. Is that light, or heavy? Any more suggestions?

    I'll do a test run later and let you know the results. Thanks much!
     

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  9. Kajiren

    Kajiren Screw

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    The pictures may not show it properly, but the front plate leans on the edge of the N03 unit, giving it a natural downthrust of some sort. Would I need a brake set here, seeing that I'll only be using the Torque-tuned motor?
     
  10. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Don't know. You'd have to try it to find out it's characteristic on the track. You may need some brake and probably an under guard, I don't think they'll take to nicely to those exposed screw heads hitting the track.
     
  11. ltr74

    ltr74 Aluminum Lock Nut

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    Don't underestimate torque tuned motors. They are quick. The lower top speed means you can go closer to all out. on our tracks, the fastest tuned cars are often within 2 seconds of the fastest open cars.

    You will need mass dampers, you will need brakes.

    Also is 140 grams with batteries? if not it seems heavy. Most of our tuned cars are in the 120g range without batteries and we're running 4 or 5 carbon plates and mass dampers.
     
  12. Kajiren

    Kajiren Screw

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    Yes, it is with batteries already.

    So, the checklist would be to get countersunk screws, play with mass dampers and brake sets, and look for a way to install an underguard.

    Will get back to you guys with results. Thanks!
     
  13. Kajiren

    Kajiren Screw

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    Here's the link to the upcoming race we have here in the PH:

    https://www.lilshobbycenter.com.ph/pages/tmac-stock-class-rules

    It now weighs 145 grams with full batteries, without dampers yet. They're doing a time attack mode to qualify for the race. Haven't done a speed check yet (because I don't own one haha), torque tuned 3.5, hollow shafts and fluorine coated gear shaft too. The rollers came from the Aero Mount set, black brakes. The blue brakes made my Avante fly too high, for some reason.

    I shied away from the MS multi brake set, as my rear rollers gets stuck hanging on the lane wall, hence the carbon stay setup. Anything else aside from the dampers I need to improve on?
     

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