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Drews Suspension Ideas and Builds

Discussion in 'Chassis Builds/Pics/Videos' started by Drew, Oct 23, 2017.

  1. Drew

    Drew FRP H-Bar

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    Location:
    Nottingham, UK
    Suspension Build Ideas:

    4 Post/Spring ideas (Can also just remove the 4 top springs):

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]





    A different take on 4 post/Internal suspension....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    Full independent suspension v1 (first attempt), the best way to build this is to reverse the position of the swing arms. I mounted them so I could have the shock next to the center chassis, but it's better mounting swing arms so to have the spring at the front of the wheels.
    You can find the build log here:
    http://m4race.com/threads/leiywens-ms-thread-retired-thread.104/page-3

    Topside.
    [​IMG]

    Front.
    [​IMG]
    Underside.
    [​IMG]



    Full independent suspension v2 (2nd attempt, also added steering)
    Can find the full build log here:
    http://m4race.com/threads/leiywens-drews-f-i-s-s-v2.150/

    [​IMG][​IMG]



    Savleo and Veldaga (MS Evo.1 kit) MS chassis suspension
    Find the build log here:
    http://m4race.com/threads/leiywens-drews-savleo-build.152/

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]



    Silwolf/Abilista (MA Chassis)
    Find the MA suspension build here:
    http://m4race.com/threads/yet-another-suspension-build-by-leiywen-drew.148/

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]



    Prototype full independent universal camber/pushrod suspension (I call it the "rocker" suspension)
    Technically works on every chassis type, just need to mod the shock collar mount based on chassis.
    I built it on the AR chassis to prove the it is possible to give single shaft motor cars suspension.
    Find the build log here:
    http://m4race.com/threads/prototype-rocker-suspension-a-universal-fiss.189/

    20180109_133621.jpg




    I think I accidentally deleted a couple of ideas (which I'll get on here soon as I make more pics) along with a couple posts based on my ideas (I'm sorry, I was getting myself super confused trying to get everything tidy into this thread).
    In the meanwhile, I hope this helps with inspiration and ideas.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
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  2. Drew

    Drew FRP H-Bar

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    This is an idea I had for making a simple clip together suspension for the MS. The idea was that you could make different setups by only building on the bumpers and being able to switch out on the fly as it all just clipped together.
    The build does simply clip together but to process the bumpers is a bit of a pain. Also, it's best to keep the rear stay mount on the bumper, not cut it off like below, I was reusing this from another build.

    IMG_20171020_184709.jpg IMG_20171020_184652.jpg IMG_20171020_184638.jpg
    IMG_20171020_184628.jpg IMG_20171020_184613.jpg IMG_20171020_184527.jpg IMG_20171020_184459.jpg IMG_20171020_184422.jpg IMG_20171020_184407.jpg


    Edit:

    I've repurposed the chassis for the v3, so I've used all spare/scrap parts, but going off the above idea I figured I'd try without the springs, the result is a low rider MS and the whole car becomes a damper, here's a couple pics and video:

    IMG_20171205_153354.jpg IMG_20171205_153433.jpg IMG_20171205_153315.jpg

     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2017
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  3. Drew

    Drew FRP H-Bar

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    Location:
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    I also had this idea which I accidentally deleted.
    Similar to the above build, this one however would have to hold together using frp as it essentially doesn't use any bumper.

    IMG_20171023_225158.jpg IMG_20171023_225213.jpg

    Just use frp where the orange is indicated. Super large travel, but no gear covers.....unless you want to modify it like this...

    IMG_20171020_184638.jpg

    If you were to do it like this, you'd need to have to extend the frp over the point where you can see the terminals in the second image and use the chassis/shell lock to keep the bumper attached to the center chassis.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
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  4. Drew

    Drew FRP H-Bar

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    I don't know if anyone noticed, but I deleted the FissV3 thread since it didn't work out, so I carried on with the car in a different method and wanted to tidy up the thread but figured it would be easier just to delete it and make a fresh post.
    I'll explain why and also show what I came up with here.

    So if you guys remember I was trying to make full independent suspension like this:

    IMG_20171117_205706.jpg IMG_20171117_205738.jpg

    With the car basically set up looking like this:

    IMG_20171109_171523.jpg IMG_20171109_171446.jpg IMG_20171109_171407.jpg

    Unfortunately when finally got around to building the transmission and setting it up, it didn't work as expected, instead it was doing this:

    IMG_20180117_235616.jpg

    Completely what I didn't want, but sort of expected. Since that wasn't how I wanted it to work and no real way of correcting it, I decided to scrap that idea at that point.

    Which brings me to why I deleted the tread and post here instead. I decided to go with the method in the previous couple of posts before this. I'm still using the same chassis, but set up will be different. So let's dive into it.

    The chassis, the bottom is just for comparison, you should be able to see how I've trimmed the body in the previous photos:

    IMG_20171218_144450.jpg IMG_20171218_144427.jpg

    I'll be still using the same stays with pivot damper set up, I've trimmed out the red on the aluminium parts and orange on the rear frp, the yellow dot is irrelevant, a previous idea discarded. The ball link on the rear pivots will go on the shorter hole. You'll be able to see how it turned out a little later.

    IMG_20171207_181345.jpg

    Also, the rear pivot plates have a little space between both frp because of how it's setup, so there's a little wiggle on the rear rollers, but once they connect with a wall, they straighten out fine so no issue. I mention this because although it's the same pivot as the front, the rubber rings are connected differently, on the front the rings fit around the frp and press it tighter together thus removing the wiggle space you get on the back stay. See below.

    IMG_20171207_182822.jpg


    So, the part where I went a different method.
    This time I'll be setting up the suspension like so:

    IMG_20180119_162214.jpg

    The springs will be mounted on the inner post both front and rear. The rubber is the tube you get with the stab caps.
    I needed to find a way of trimming the tube neatly and after searching youtube, came up with this method:

    IMG_20180119_162235.jpg IMG_20180119_162303.jpg

    Using something that fits perfect into the rubber tube, I then use the drill press as a lathe to cut the rubber into smaller o-rings. Turns out this method helps cut the rubber perfectly, before doing it manually on the kitchen counter top it was coming out all nasty.

    Anyway, this is the assembly:

    IMG_20180119_162536.jpg

    The spring length will determine the strength rather than using different strength springs, so there's a bit of trimming to do to them later. I've used a soft spring on all four posts.
    I've also added a rubber ring to the bottom of all the inner posts (the rear, bottom image, added the rubber ring after taking these images):

    IMG_20180119_171039.jpg IMG_20180119_172903.jpg

    After preparing the suspension, I started to build it up, adding the stays:

    IMG_20180119_172931.jpg IMG_20180119_173021.jpg

    I then added the wheels so I could test the suspension and trim the springs as needed, the under side has very easy access, all I needed to do was remove the two middle spars and loosen the front/rear stay and I can easily move the frp braces out the way and remove the spring, without fully disassembling. Also because the gear covers are only held on by the shell and the slot on the chassis, the covers easily come off for maintenance and to access the clips to remove the motor cover, all without disassembling the front/rear stays and bumpers. Of course, I'd already trimmed all the chassis for the original method which failed, but if I were to have prepped for this from the beginning, I could have left the clips on the gear covers instead so they'd just clip on/off and allow you to use whatever body shell you prefer.:

    IMG_20180119_180717.jpg IMG_20180119_180622.jpg IMG_20180119_180632.jpg

    I finished up by adding the rear upper stay, adding rollers and just general tuning. I also clipped a little plastic near where the ball link on the rear pivot bumps into the chassis to allow it to sit flush.

    IMG_20180120_215044.jpg

    A couple more things, I'd prefer to use the frp plate (red) as the middle spars (green arrows) which would allow me to add the dampers behind the front wheels and with a larger screw for better travel (like the savleo build), you can also see I've attached the gear covers and locked them in place by attaching the shell.

    IMG_20180120_215529.jpg


    And this concludes the build.
    I will most likely use this shell for the FissV2 rebuild when I get around to it, it's what I bought the car for originally anyway.
    Anywho, here's the overall car, hope you guys like:

    IMG_20180121_141654.jpg IMG_20180121_142043.jpg IMG_20180121_141746.jpg IMG_20180121_141803.jpg IMG_20180121_141854.jpg IMG_20180121_141835.jpg IMG_20180121_141925.jpg IMG_20180121_141953.jpg

    And with this, one more build down, three more to go >.<;
    I also want to note before I forget, after working on so many MS chassis, I've come to notice that both the MS-L (this build) and the MS-L reinforced (evo.1 pro kit) have the same issue, they both seem to be moulded a little askew. Although most people won't see it, it really irritates me, so I'll try to avoid these chassis in the future.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
  5. Drew

    Drew FRP H-Bar

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    In regards to the car with the green under guard and green brake in the first post and as an alternative to the last car posted above, this is for people with no power tools, all you should need is a pair of clippers, a hobby knife, a pin drill as well as the other obvious tools. I've had to use a few different parts I had lying around which have already been cut for other builds and experiments, but just follow the cut lines and you'll be fine.

    First you'd need to cut the middle chassis following the red lines, if you don't want to keep the gear cover, cut the purple line too, but you won't be able to reattach the cover after. Both sides are done exactly the same, as well for the bumpers:

    [​IMG]

    On the other side, make sure not to damage this part of the chassis:

    [​IMG]


    If you have the correct bumper pack, you should have these:

    [​IMG]

    For the bumper, all you need to do is cut off the clip tabs (yellow box) and use a round file to round out the axle area (blue oval) to allow for stabilising the gear. Again, this is a part I've already trimmed for another build, so don't cut off anything other than indicated:

    [​IMG]

    Next you want to insert the hex standoffs into the post holes on the bumper, make sure the large are next to the middle chassis while the short one is furthest away, also add a screw and washer to the bottom to prevent them coming up and out:

    [​IMG]

    Next, place your axle mount and the spring on top over the hex standoff.

    [​IMG]

    Now it's ready to mount to the chassis.
    Make sure the the middle chassis is already build up with the gear cover on as you'll be using the motor cover to as the mount pad.
    It get's a bit tricky here, first you want to take this part from the MS multi brake pack:

    [​IMG]

    You'll need to build up the rear hex post with a couple washers just to even it out with the height of the motor cover, then build up the short post to the same level. Once that is done, it's best to build the plastic "U" plate onto the bumper short hexes first, get the screws to bite, but not all the way down, then attach the bumper to the chassis.
    This part is very fiddly but when it's done, it should look something like this:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Please take note that there is a 3mm washer on the small hex post to keep the axle mount travelling any further up on the front. This will act like a pivot point.
    Just tighten the screws down and you're all good.

    Just to point out, the method in the link at the start is the most mainstream method of suspension assembly. This small guide is just a simple build for people without power tools and as such may be more susceptible to damage (mainly the plastic "U" plate).
     

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