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Leiywens/Drews F.I.S.S v2

Discussion in 'MS' started by Drew, Jul 30, 2017.

  1. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    I decided to make a fresh thread for this v2 build so as to try to make the step by step photo guide much easier to follow. It's going to be a slow process, but I won't be updating this thread for some time, so that I can build and prepare the photos.

    But I will start of by using this post to outline my plan for the v2.

    To begin, after completing the v1, I found several things which I can improve upon. This time round, I'm not going to be focusing on keeping the aesthetics and building around that, this time it will be built properly and with more care from the ground up.
    I've seen a few different suspension builds, all kept the MS chassis correct way up, but after looking into these builds, I keep seeing the same issue. Build space and ground clearance on the underside is extremely tight.
    Due to this, I've decided to run with MSUD (MS-upside down), below I'll try to show why.

    000 reason for MSUD.jpg

    I've already inverted the chassis to try and show. You'll notice that the Green/Orange arrow show the distance from center axle to the chassis topside/underside which in turn affects the white/purple arrow build space and ground clearance. If you look carefully, you'll notice that there is roughly a 1.5 - 2mm extra gain in building space by inverting the chassis.
    The other side effect is that the axle also sits about 1mm above the true center line of the MS chassis, but inverting it, we get another extra 1mm of space to work with which will aid in keeping good clearance with an underplate installed.


    I will be adding/changing some other features on this build but I hope you all look forward to seeing how this turns out.

    Edit:
    Just wanted to point out, the inspiration for this build comes from this...
    Capture.PNG


    EDIT!! PLEASE READ.

    So, after getting halfway through the build with the intent of running it as MSUD, turns out it won't really be necessary after all. Although the build will remain the same, but at the part of the build I'm at right now, I've come to find that I will have better clearance proper way up, so by flipping the one way wheels, I can run correct way up and have better clearance. Seems my initial issues were unwarranted, so I've highlighted it in red, please ignore all that. I didn't want to remove it in order to highlight my error in thinking.

    This means that the underside plate I made is now a top reinforcing plate used to help strengthen and hold the bumpers in place. I will reword that in the post below.
    I just wish there was a strike through option in the tool bar so I could strike through the irrelevant part.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017
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  2. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Stage 1.
    Preparing the chassis

    Red = Cut
    Green = Trim
    Yellow = Trim
    20170729_150750.jpg

    Red = Trim for floating gear.
    Green = Trim.
    20170729_150802.jpg 20170729_150900.jpg 20170729_150906.jpg

    Rear roller stay completely removed.
    20170729_150921.jpg

    Red = Trim
    Green = Trim
    Yellow = Trim for floating gear
    Blue = Tiny portion of the rear panel removed to fit the axle mount.
    20170729_150934.jpg 20170729_150950.jpg

    Removed the bumper by starting with the red followed by the green.
    20170729_151008.jpg 20170729_151008b.jpg

    Red = Trim
    Green = Trim
    Yellow = Trim for floating gear.
    20170729_151020.jpg 20170729_151049.jpg


    Red = Trim a tiny fraction of the end.
    Yellow = Trim down but don't remove the post holes.
    Blue = Trim.
    20170729_151124.jpg

    Red = Trim and clean.
    20170729_151141.jpg

    Same as with the rear.
    20170729_151211.jpg 20170729_151224.jpg


    Finished trimming should all go together like below.
    20170729_151343.jpg 20170729_151352.jpg 20170729_151422.jpg 20170729_151438.jpg
    20170729_151538.jpg
    20170729_151544.jpg
     
  3. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Stage 2.
    Wheel Upright assembly (with steering).

    This part comes from the Steering kit. You need only this part and the plastic ring that slips inside.
    Widen the hole using a 3mm or 4mm bit.
    IMG_20170730_165903.jpg IMG_20170730_165915.jpg IMG_20170730_165955.jpg

    Trim down the inside of the plastic ring until the 6mm bearing fits snug inside. The lip on the outside of the ring should be at the bottom, press the bearing all the way down.
    IMG_20170730_170237.jpg IMG_20170730_170311.jpg


    Now push the ring/bearing into the main upright and push all the way in.
    IMG_20170730_170319.jpg IMG_20170730_170337.jpg


    Next, the black ring is a 6mm axle mount from the NT-04 unit. It's had the post holes completely removed and the back trimmed down flat.
    IMG_20170801_153134.jpg


    Using a spare axle, I put glue on the top face ring of the orange part. I then put the axle in the bearing in the orange part before dropping the black ring down the axle. Once the black ring was in position, I picked up the unit by the orange arm and dropped the axle through the bearings a few times to achieve best alignment.
    I then applied more glue around the small neck/lip around the back of the black ring to further secure it and left it over night to dry.
    IMG_20170801_153151.jpg

    2 plates needed per wheel upright assembly. Screwed together for processing.
    IMG_20170803_172703.jpg

    3mm hole drilled in one of the middle holes. Not drilled through the hole, but offset to the outer side of the hole, this needs to be done to position the steering mount. Steering mount may also need trimming a little (see later pics).
    IMG_20170803_174452.jpg

    Countersink the outer hole next to the 3mm hole.
    IMG_20170803_175342.jpg IMG_20170803_180311.jpg

    Here I've trimmed some off the steering unit opposite the arm. As with the previous note, this needs to be done to some extent to due to the proximity of the alu spacer.
    IMG_20170803_180410.jpg


    This is the upright assembly.
    IMG_20170803_180921.jpg

    As you can see here, the steering is working. Note: you only need a little freedom of movement.
    IMG_20170803_180958.jpg IMG_20170803_181009.jpg

    Need 4x packs of these reinforced 3 point rear stay.
    IMG_20170805_163904.jpg


    All we need is this, feels almost wasteful.
    IMG_20170805_163953.jpg

    Process... The cluster of 4, we need the circled 3 and to drill the 2 with red circle inside with 2mm bit.
    IMG_20170805_164133.jpg

    Before and after.
    IMG_20170805_180731.jpg


    Next we need 2 bits of axle, not too long, as they need to sit between 2 screws, the visible parts will slip into the rubber pipe.
    IMG_20170805_190114.jpg


    IMG_20170805_191517.jpg


    Fully finished should look something like this. Once the thread lock is dried, I will cut the screws flush to finish.
    IMG_20170805_212823.jpg IMG_20170805_213944.jpg

    IMG_20170809_182901.jpg


    Need to repeat the process, remember to mount steering control 2x for left side, 2x for right side.
    Wheel is only made up to show the complete unit, still needs to undergo processing.

    That's all for this stage.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2017
  4. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Stage 3:
    Wheel mounting/Gear axle mounting and Reinforcing/Stay/Under plates*.

    * I will be turning this build correct way up, I've edited in the OP and left another post at the bottom of this thread. As such, the "under plate" is now a top reinforcing plate. It's purpose remains unchanged.


    At each end I will use the plate that comes with the ball link mass damper to secure the wheel mounts and to which the popsicles will be attached.
    The main concept is this.

    Yellow = Front
    Orange = Back
    11.jpg


    Here I've done the countersink and assembled that plates.
    11a.jpg

    This is how it will be mounted. The red squares show an issue with the nut contacting the gear cover.
    To remedy this, I will trim some slot out of the gear cover and trim the screws down to the nut to make them flat.
    12.jpg

    Will need to open up a slot for the nuts here.
    13.jpg 14.jpg

    After trimming.
    15.jpg

    I've also trimmed a little extra on the gear cover since it stood a little too high that the plate was not flat. With this, the nut fits fine and the plates can now be mounted flat.
    16.jpg

    For the battery holder, I decided to try and go with just cutting the middle section from the standard battery holder clip to have individual left and right clips.
    17.jpg 18.jpg

    This is the end result I was looking for.
    19.jpg 20.jpg

    Here are both the front (top) and middle mounted wheel guard (bottom) plates that the sliding dampers will be mounted on.
    Before trimming:
    IMG_20170820_154304.jpg

    After trimming:
    IMG_20170820_155941.jpg




    Here you can see all the plates put together in the rough shape. The rear stay plate with brake I salvaged from a different build, but it should be obvious how I've made it..

    IMG_20170820_190629.jpg



    Preparing the wheels.
    Large dia. Wheels are a must!
    Depending on which wheels used, they may or may not need to be prepared. This basically means cutting off the neck the connects to the axle.
    I've decided to use one way wheel set so there's a little more prep.

    I want to begin with opening the hole all the way through using a 1.6mm bit. This will allow me to push the axle further in, which is needed when I cut the neck off.
    IMG_20170807_214512.jpg

    Next I need to trim down the little post that helps hold the center gear straight. Not entirely, just a little to give more access for the axle.
    IMG_20170807_214707.jpg


    Next I need to cut the neck off. This goes for normal wheels if it has a neck. We need the wheel to be as close to the upright as possible. This is for shortening the wheelbase width.
    IMG_20170807_214733.jpg


    Ultimately, ending with this.
    IMG_20170807_220150.jpg IMG_20170807_220228.jpg IMG_20170807_220344.jpg


    Decided to use the small axle that comes with the MS brake set, no point wasting full axles.
    Mounted both ends to try and get the wheels balanced before we start cutting up the axle.
    IMG_20170810_191223.jpg

    After cutting the axle, I've put the assembly together to figure out how much of the remaining axle needs cutting/trimming.
    To make the cup, see Stage 4 Dock Rod assembly post.
    IMG_20170814_160517.jpg

    After cutting the axle and slowly grinding it down, should end up with this. The axle sits in the neck of the cup, just below the level of the slots.
    IMG_20170814_161024.jpg IMG_20170814_161030.jpg


    All that's needed to hold the cup on now is a dab of thread lock / metal glue.
    This wheel assembly is finished and ready for fitting to the chassis.
    IMG_20170814_161651.jpg



    Now to take a look at the wheel/chassis mounting.

    Will be needing 8x (9x depending on how you mount the back shock) of this part from the just as many packs of the MS multi brake since each pack only comes with one.
    IMG_20170808_170656.jpg

    For the inner mount (closest to battery bay), will be needing 8 cut like this.
    Since I'm using the standard battery cover, I needed to cut a tiny slither off the edge in order for this part to fit snug, you'll see in a moment.
    IMG_20170808_170731.jpg

    This is the front bumper wheel mount piece. I've drilled a second hole to adjust the mounting position to have it sit closer to the swing arm.
    IMG_20170808_170807.jpg


    Here you can see the position of both parts.
    I came to realise that the plastic part I'd left here in the red circle was causing the front mount to be angled instead of flat, so I've removed it on both sides.
    IMG_20170808_170920.jpg

    This is how the front assembly will look once I get around to attaching it. All the chassis mounts are the same both topside and underside. The red arrow notes where I will attach the shaft stopper which will be the top of the shock absorber.
    IMG_20170808_171050.jpg


    The rear is almost identical, with the outer part made a bit longer in order to position the mount close as possible to the swing arm.
    IMG_20170808_174200.jpg
    Again the red arrow indicates where the shaft stopper will be.
    IMG_20170808_174347.jpg

    All the parts cut and ready for mounting.
    IMG_20170820_163801.jpg


    Gear assembly.
    Gears finally arrived today (15th aug)...so I've gone ahead with getting the drive gear seated and axle cut.
    Here are my new gears. I bought them pre customised.
    IMG_20170815_162145.jpg


    So I've gotten these mounted first.
    IMG_20170815_163414.jpg


    I then started on the drive axle. Began with initial assembly.
    IMG_20170815_170141.jpg

    Since the bearings are mounted internally rather than externally now, it's best to stabilise the gear and axle internally.
    IMG_20170815_171512.jpg

    After this, I marked out roughly where on the axle to cut off and shorten it, ready for mounting the cups. Once that was done, I assembled it again and put some gear on the ends to secure everything until I have the cups made. The axle is cut to about the same length as the neck of the pinion, which should be about the same length needed for the neck into the cup.

    IMG_20170815_174402.jpg

    Here is the finished gear assembly.

    IMG_20170815_174352.jpg


    All the cups are finished and waiting on the thread lock to cure.

    IMG_20170818_182731.jpg IMG_20170818_182810.jpg IMG_20170818_195649.jpg


    Now to mount everything. Here's the underside view with everything mounted. Note the red rings, indicating where an extra spacer is needed, in my case I used some scrap frp so the the pressure is spread over the full length of the plastic mount where the hole is, reducing stress on the part.

    IMG_20170825_164044.jpg

    This is the topside view.

    IMG_20170825_184525.jpg

    I've made the rear mount as such: washer > spacer/frp > plastic mount > spacer/frp, the nuts are temporary until I finish up and lock everything down.
    This will change once I have the parts for my stays as I'll be mounting that on the top, so it will take the place of the bottom spacer/frp.
    IMG_20170825_184609.jpg

    This is the front mount. Again, I could follow the same principle as the rear, in this case I used spacer instead of frp since the plastic mount didn't need stabilising as much.

    IMG_20170825_184629.jpg

    OK so I had a bit of a automaton moment and cut all the threaded shaft as needed for the lower mount. I was supposed to leave some thread on the top four shafts (red circle) to attach the shaft stopper which will form the top collar of the shock. Brain farts always prevail at some point. Waiting on new ones before I can switch them out, but in the mean time I went ahead and set everything up that I needed to finish this section.

    IMG_20170825_184651.jpg

    The shock build. Pretty simple, will have to take apart in order to screw the shaft stopper onto the threaded shaft once I get the replacements.

    IMG_20170825_184956.jpg

    Here's how they will look mounted both rear and front.

    IMG_20170825_185059.jpg IMG_20170826_174426.jpg


    Finally, I needed to secure the rear wheels in the correct position as they're not supposed to act as steering.
    I figured something simple should do the trick. I had a lot of scrap frp from the wing plates, so I took the pieces and stuck them together in pairs and shaped them.....(hands up all you dirty minded gits!)
    IMG_20170825_162938.jpg IMG_20170825_162949.jpg


    Mounted as such.

    IMG_20170825_163037.jpg IMG_20170825_163604.jpg


    End result. They hold the wheels in correct direction and allow free movement of suspension.
    I may go back and redo these at some point, make the hold section a little longer.
    IMG_20170825_165723.jpg


    Once I've locked everything down, this is what the end result should look like.

    IMG_20170825_185528.jpg


    Here's where I am at right now. Will need to work on the stays later, for now they're mounted for checking and parts making. That will come in the stays post.

    IMG_20170826_174449.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2017
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  5. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Stage 4:
    Dock rod build and lower suspension arm.

    Beginning this section by starting with the cups.
    They're pretty much the same as my v1 build, a little better but I'll go over it again.
    I will use this 6mm spacer with the ring. It will help as an aid for the center point.
    To begin, the neck end needs to be trimmed a little to save as much space as possible.
    IMG_20170814_154120.jpg
    IMG_20170814_154500.jpg
    It's not much, but given the space between drive gear axle and wheel axle, every little helps.
    Not going to trim the cup end, as we need the rod to sit as deep in as possible so as not to shake out (A serious issue with my v1 build).

    Next is to drill the hole wider. I used a 2.4mm followed by 2.8mm bits to widen the cup seat.
    IMG_20170814_155125.jpg


    Next, I crimp the neck of the spacer. An axle is used so as the spacer doesn't crimp closed. This will give us a good attachment to the axle. Need to take care to keep the axle straight through or the cup will get crimped at an angle which is not good.
    IMG_20170814_155249.jpg

    After crimping, the slots are cut down to the original center line.
    IMG_20170814_155628.jpg
    After this, I tidy up the edges of the slots using a knife to scrape off the excess.

    Finally I use the countersunk bit to angle the openings collar.
    IMG_20170814_160206.jpg

    At this point, I attached the cups to the wheel and drive gear axle. Could also build a test piece by mounting the cup to some scrap axle to keep hand for testing the dock rod that will be built next.


    Beginning the dock rod.

    Will need 8 pieces of brass insert for the double roller.
    IMG_20170814_195341.jpg


    Test them with the cups made in the first step. They need to slip straight in without being forced. Need to trim them down until they fit nicely.
    IMG_20170814_195418.jpg

    Next both the brass and axles need slots.
    IMG_20170814_201542.jpg
    IMG_20170814_201509.jpg


    Also, will need something to use as a pin. In this case, going to be using the spring that's found in the motor holding the magnets in place. They will be needed to be cut and trimmed to become pins.
    IMG_20170814_203218.jpg IMG_20170814_203930.jpg


    Next just need to assemble the parts. Using epoxy/metal glue, the pin goes into the axle slot and the brass is applied like a cap.
    IMG_20170814_204458.jpg
    IMG_20170814_205648.jpg



    Here's the first of dock rods shaped. It also fits well with the cup.
    IMG_20170815_205927.jpg IMG_20170815_210109.jpg

    For scale, the tamiya logo on the model box.
    IMG_20170816_172912.jpg

    After cutting to size.
    dock rod 2.jpg
    dock rod 1.jpg

    Finished shaping, dock rods are done. Hopefully I've got this right. If they're a touch long, I might be able to trim them down a touch, but if they're too short, I'll have to remake them.
    dock rod 3.jpg


    Lower shock arm.
    I'd completely forgotten about working out how to do the shocks. I finally worked out how the red car in the OP had the shock attached to the lower swing arm.
    Shock Alt.jpg

    But I'm not going to buy any more packs of MS brake sets (isn't 8x enough already -.-; )
    So I tried to think of a different way of doing it. I thought about the ball link method, but the thread on the ball was too short and interfered with it's surroundings (yellow line).
    Shock 1.jpg

    Then I thought of a couple other ways. The first would be to use a stab cap and drill a hole into or through it at a 90 angle to the original hole.
    The second, which I chose to do, was to drill the hole into the ball link and mount it to a threaded shaft.
    Shock 2.jpg Shock 3.jpg Shock 4.jpg Shock 4a.jpg shock 5.jpg


    Finally my little gun turrets are complete!
    shock 6.jpg

    Ok, jokes aside, this stage is now complete and these parts are ready for mounting.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2017
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  6. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Stage 5:
    Stay assembly.


    So I got my new stays done.
    IMG_20170826_163545.jpg IMG_20170826_163607.jpg

    Since the rear wheels are held in position already, I can use either sliding or static damper.....I've gone with a standard sliding damper.
    IMG_20170826_174507.jpg

    Here's the end result of the rear stay.
    IMG_20170826_183659.jpg


    I've mounted the front stay in it's position, I need to craft the steering link arms later. They need to attach to the front stay. IMG_20170826_174520.jpg

    But for now, it's looking good, it runs, a bit noisy, but runs pretty well.
    IMG_20170826_174449.jpg

    For the arm links I'm going to use the MS extension frp. I've glued them together in pairs and clamped both links together so I can drill the mounting holes and slots.
    IMG_20170827_160737.jpg IMG_20170827_160745.jpg

    Here is the intended method, the little dots are where I'll need to drill the holes to attach the link to the stay.
    IMG_20170827_160806.jpg

    Attached to the stay and positioned. Will test then lock it down tight before trimming the links to accommodate the wheels and cut off the ends.
    IMG_20170827_164218.jpg

    Here is the stay mounted and the link arms being tweaked.
    The images in order are straight, left turning and right turning.
    IMG_20170827_164244.jpg IMG_20170827_164313.jpg IMG_20170827_164331.jpg

    Here is the finished setup up for the front stay. Next to just reattach it and finished.
    IMG_20170827_170318.jpg


    And here it is. The bulk of the main build complete. Just need to work on the shell and body damper.
    IMG_20170827_171413.jpg

    Here's the youtube vid of it powered up. It's hard to hold and manipulate while trying to avoid knocking the camera over. There's a few little things I'll probably do, such as trim the tires and wheels a little like I did with the leo build, maybe trim down the middle wheel guards a touch more also.
    I did try to run it on my track, but with it not being a proper tamiya track, it wouldn't fit the corners, that said, it fits perfectly in the straight like all the other cars. I guess the fake tracks lanes are just too skinny.

     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
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  7. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Stage 6

    Shell and front body damper.


    So I got the Shooting Proud Star kit, just wanted it for the shell, but I can make a simpler build for the DCR-01 shell with it's kit.

    Anyway, here's the initial shot with a few bits trimmed off. Will get to building the damper later sometime.
    Also, not sure if I should remove the tail or keep it, looks good either way.

    IMG_20170827_184645.jpg


    So, I began by preparing the frp for the damper.
    Here are the cuts and holes to drill.

    IMG_20170828_181005.jpg

    And rough setup....I forgot to trim the ends off the stay before this.
    IMG_20170828_181840.jpg

    Here is the stay built up and with shell attached.

    IMG_20170828_191338.jpg
    IMG_20170828_191349.jpg
    After this, all that's left is to mount the damper to the car. I used a couple springs and mounted it on the extra long screws that I had not trimmed at the front.

    Here is the final setup...kinda
    At this point I was going over how to finish the shell....with the tail, without the tail....I couldn't decide.
    It just seemed to sit too high and leave a big empty space in the rear.

    Without wing.
    IMG_20170828_193127.jpg IMG_20170828_193225.jpg

    With wing.
    IMG_20170828_193147.jpg IMG_20170828_193208.jpg

    And then it came to me, how about mounting the wings upside down on the underside of the shell.
    Yup, looks so much better so I kept this style. All that's needed now is a fresh spray of paint and she's all done.

    IMG_20170828_193507.jpg IMG_20170828_193459.jpg


    Here's a drop test demo that I forgot to make. No shell on, it's waiting to be painted, but shouldn't make a difference.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2017
  8. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Update:

    Stage 2 finished.
     
  9. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Sometimes, it feels just a little wasteful.

    IMG_20170808_141401.jpg

    So I need the part indicated from every pack. Other than that, I just need the brake pads from 1 pack, 3 of the small axle (1 per pack) and the rubber pipes from all the packs. None of the other plastic parts, none of the screw packs, don't need most of the brake pads.

    If I'd have laid out all the packs before opening and using them from which I only needed just 1 part.....it would look very depressing indeed.

    I feel just a little numb inside.
     
  10. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Just wanted to add a quick picture update in where the build is at, at this moment.

    IMG_20170810_191223.jpg

    I'm not sure if I'm going to use the DCR-01 shell for this, will think about that towards the end.
    Still waiting on more parts, another narrow one way wheel set for the front wheels, more alu spacers, motor (could put a mach dash in or wait for the HDP), 3.5:1 gear set (pre custom floating).
    I hope the parts don't take too long to arrive, but seems like this will be on haitus for a week, maybe two.
    It's all looking pretty good right now. When I did a test mount for the uprights, it felt so much sturdier and stronger than the previous version in the v1. Overall, I'm loving how this one is shaping up, far more than how the other started to go wrong mid build.

    I'm thinking of maybe making a front body damper for roll stabilisation unless I can find another way to mount the side dampers.

    Welp, that's all for now. Will update the thread again later.
     
  11. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Been editing a few posts with updates, it's really getting long >.<;
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  12. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Here's a glimpse of how the wheels and under plate will be set up.
    I've put it together so I can work out the length of the dock rods and how much to trim off the shafts holding the arms to the chassis.

    IMG_20170818_233329.jpg

    I can't finalise this yet, I still need the new stay parts so I can mount the stay under plate and the thread lock holding the cups on still needs time to cure.
    Still it's starting to shape up nice.
     
  13. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    I've edited the OP as I've discovered something very important, you don't need to reread it since I'll explain here.

    Turns out that after doing a full mock assembly of the setup you see above (I've done the mounts on the other side so the wheels are secured in their correct positions), I've come to find that there is plenty of clearance when I turn the car correct way up.

    This means that this is no longer an MS-UD build, but a normal way up build. I am going to keep the "underplate" as this remains where it is and becomes a top reinforcing plate (same as original purpose, just on top instead of below now). The wheels that are currently mounted like in the image above just need to be flipped to the other side.

    I had to post this, as it's a pretty important update to the build.
     
  14. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Updated, Stage 4 finished.
     
  15. warwick

    warwick Spacer

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    You are not going to use metal crown gear permanently, right?
     
  16. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    You mean the pinion gear? Yes, for whatever reason, no plastic pinions want to stick on that motor shaft, they keep coming loose.
     
  17. warwick

    warwick Spacer

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    ah yea the pinion gear, its gonna eat your green counter gear later on.
     
  18. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    I'll give it some thought. If I can find the other mach dash and get the plastic pinions to stay on it, maybe I'll try that.


    Edit:

    I found the other MD motor, lost amongst a sea of wheels and tires, the pinion gears seem to be fine on this one, so I've switched out the other motor....I'll find another use for the MD with loose gear issue.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2017
  19. Chris Lee Design

    Chris Lee Design Aluminum Lock Nut

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    I usually file the motor shaft a bit, add super glue on the tip and slide the pinion gear on. Doesn't come off after that, but it doesn't slip on the motor shaft either.
     
  20. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Yea, I was able to replace the pinion gears and used a dab of lockthread, does the same thing, goes on easier though, just takes 24hrs to dry.
     

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