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Prototype "Camber" Suspension. A universal FISS?

Discussion in 'AR / FMAR' started by Drew, Sep 26, 2017.

  1. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    So I was talking, I think in my FISSv2 thread or oranges' suspension thread or somewhere, about what I dub the "rocker suspension".
    I figured if it works out, it could be a chassis universal pseudo full independent suspension, that's simple and easy to tweak on per chassis basis. In order prove my theory, I ordered an AR chassis and the parts needed, which arrived today.

    As to the suspension, it came to me while making the FISSv2. I was looking through my parts box, seeing what I had and remembered the universal joints. So I laid some out with wheels and it got me thinking. When I looked up, I saw the remains of the steering kit....mainly the wheels and how they worked or if I could incorporate them with the universal joints somehow. That's when it struck me, the steering kit wheels worked in a similar method.

    Ha, found the images again, so here's what I came up with.

    IMG_20170906_141204.jpg IMG_20170906_141225.jpg
    My idea of how to make this work.
    IMG_20170906_141204a.jpg

    Using the steering wheels vertically instead of horizontally, you get this extreme camber effect which can lift the chassis 1-2mm. Now we know we don't need much to act as a damper so this is perfect. By looking at the image above, you can see where I'm going with this....I hope.
    Thing is, with a straight, unpowered drop test, it doesn't reflect how this works at all. With the forward momentum, weight and the centrifugal forces acting on the wheels while they're powered, theory should be that the wheels should corkscrew back out until the tire is flat to the ground again, like a sort of active suspension system.

    Anyway, here's what I'm looking at doing with the AR chassis to try and prove my theory. I need to cut the chassis mounts and work out how to mount them to the chassis, then make a mount to hold the shock collar (shaft stopper).

    IMG_20170926_163502.jpg IMG_20170926_163517.jpg

    Just from these images alone, I have a very good feeling about this. Only time will tell the overall results.
     
  2. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    I made a start with the front end, got a few pics, but once I've worked out the build, I'll post a more detailed guide, but for now here's what I have going.

    IMG_20170927_034418.jpg IMG_20170927_034403.jpg IMG_20170927_034541.jpg IMG_20170927_034511.jpg IMG_20170927_034644.jpg

    Next I need to make the shock collar pillar and shock. Will work on that over next couple days.
     
  3. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    So I spent some time today working out how to build the shock collar pillar and shock.
    I started with a mock up.

    IMG_20170927_172619.jpg

    This is the overall end intention. I initially was going to use something else to attach to the steering arm, but was having issues, that's when I thought a little about it and decided to try using a 3mm spacer. It needed screw hole making and slotting to fit the steering arm clip, but it worked out great.
    Also noticed, although already suspected it would, the pillar turning a little as the suspension actuated, so I had to cut some frp to try and keep the pillars lined up properly.

    End result:

    IMG_20170927_185626.jpg IMG_20170927_185637.jpg IMG_20170927_183220.jpg

    Other than a screw hole to hold the steering chassis mount in correct position, there is no trimming of the chassis needed.
    It's also a fairly simple build. I'll make more step by step as I build the back wheels up.

    Here's a small test demo video. As always, appreciate the feedback if anyone has any.

     
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  4. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Ok, so here's the first part of the step by step.
    These are the parts needed from the steering kit, also the axle which is not in the picture.

    IMG_20170927_233745.jpg


    First, to prepare the chassis mount. Decide if you will use 6mm bearing or just push the steering mount into the bearing hole.

    IMG_20170927_234028.jpg

    I'm going to use 6mm bearing so I need to drill the hole. The bearing sticks out just far enough that the mount will sit nicely on the bearing once screwed down.

    Before drilling, you should just be able to make out the bearing stub on the orange mount under the bearing.
    IMG_20170927_234115.jpg

    Hole drilled and bearing pushed in to fit. Can pop it out now, the bearing will fit to the chassis.
    IMG_20170927_234633.jpg


    Next, need to trim off the two parts indicated. Make sure to leave a little plastic on the upper part in order to drill the hole in the yellow circle. It's important as this will prevent the mount from rotating. Also important is to use 1.6mm bit.
    IMG_20170927_234715.jpg IMG_20170927_234834.jpg IMG_20170927_235117.jpg


    Once the hole is drilled, mount the bearing and the steering mount to the chassis, line it up then mark and drill a hole in the chassis. Use only 1.6mm bit, so the screw will screw in properly. If you use 2mm, there's no way to secure the mount to the chassis since the screw will be directly behind the gear. If you look, you can see where the screw is poking through, it's almost touching the gear, you could either stabilise the gear (which I've done) so they don't touch, or slightly trim the screw.
    The screw I've used is the grub screw that comes with the shaft stoppers.

    IMG_20170927_235158.jpg IMG_20170927_235511.jpg IMG_20170927_235903.jpg


    As for the steering arm, I'll be using the 850 bearing rather than the plastic bearing insert that comes with the kit.

    IMG_20170928_000016.jpg

    Now just assemble the gears with any tuning and put the wheels on to finish this section.

    IMG_20170928_010009.jpg


    I'll do the shock guide tomorrow.

    IMG_20170928_005954.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2017
  5. warwick

    warwick Spacer

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    Looking good mate,
    Have you get any ideas on how to mount on the rear?
     
  6. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Same as the front, just need a slightly longer screw.

    Also, I'm changing the thread title.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2017
  7. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Ok, here's the second part.

    Building the shock. To start with will need the MS multi brake pack for this part.
    You get 4 in a pack which is perfect. You'll want to trim it and make a 1.6mm screw hole like on the right.
    For the rear, you'll need to cut a little off the bottom or it will stand too high.
    IMG_20170928_173801.jpg IMG_20170928_173855.jpg

    After that and checking things, will need to trim back some of the gear cover and also trim the shaft stopper the goes next to it. Unfortunately, I lost the shaft stopper (down the drain >.<;) so I used a smaller random one I had lying around, so it didn't line up as I wanted.

    Anyway, here's the trimmed cover. Best trim it to personal preference. For me, I've got it so the stopper is as close to the exposed gear as possible, I could have done a better job though.
    IMG_20170928_174737.jpg IMG_20170928_174825.jpg IMG_20170928_174832.jpg


    Then to assemble it, you'll need an frp spacer to keep the pillars from turning. Pretty straight forward, just screw the pillars on to the chassis, add the frp, then add the shaft stoppers.

    IMG_20170928_184411.jpg IMG_20170928_184424.jpg


    And the shock is pretty simple too.
    Just cut to size like so. There's something else you can do at this stage also. If you want less negative camber, if you have a tap and die set, you could thread the other end of the shaft to take a lock nut for adjusting the camber. I don't have one, so I haven't done this, but it will be by far the best next step for improving this build. Alternatively, you could use a shaft stopper, or make a pin, something to reduce the length of the shock.

    IMG_20170928_184830.jpg

    Prepare a couple 3mm spacer to look like pac man. I drilled a 1.6mm hole then tapped it.

    IMG_20170928_184923.jpg


    Assembled as below.

    IMG_20170928_185758.jpg

    There's nothing special about attaching the shock rods, just turn the stopper to face up, slot the shock, then push it in and clip it the top of the steering arm.

    IMG_20170928_185838.jpg IMG_20170928_190041.jpg

    And that's it, the front and back build identically except the gear shock, like I said earlier, I couldn't get it right after I lost the stopper I was trimming. However it is working.

    Here's a couple videos, the first is showing what should happen when it's on the surface with a little down force and momentum.
    Unlike other suspensions, this one you can't static drop test as the suspension won't actuate unless all 3 criteria are met:

    Forward momentum
    Weight
    Wheels turning

    When all 3 combine you should get what I'm trying to demonstrate in the video. Watch how the wheels camber change.



    Here's a powered test, showing what happens when I just lightly tap the wheel with no significant force.



    The camber I have right now might be too much, so like I suggested earlier, it would be a good idea to find a method of changing the camber setting by modding the shaft to take a lock nut or using a shaft stopper, etc...

    Another thing to note is that the suspension characteristics will change based on the tires you're running. For example, flat tires will only work negative to neutral camber, barrelled tires should go through full range from negative to positive camber, while offset tread will only work if they are set up as wide and will rest at positive camber until it leaves the surface. If you set them as narrow, the camber won't be able to work as it will already be on a significant flat surface. The little the contact area between surface and tire, the better this will work.

    So there it is, my idea for a universal chassis full independent suspension. I'd really love to know if any one else attempts this and what the results were. I can't do a video of it running on a track, as without any jumps, the video would be meaningless.
    Anyway, hope you guys like it. Let me know what you think and feedback :D
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2017
  8. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    I decided the video above didn't really work well for demonstrating, so I build a temporary mini dynamo to test this car.
    Hopefully this can better show the suspension working, unfortunately, it's difficult to get a good angle to record this, so I hope this will do.

    You'll be best going to youtube and viewing it fullscreen.



    Here unsuccessful run with HD3, I tried to make a little jump but the track just doesn't allow for it at least not tuned:




    Sorry for quality, I know it's not great.

    Couple more notes, I want to change the front rods and give all rods thread so I can adjust camber.
    I've only just received the die for that, so will get on it next week I think.
    There's also more tuning I want to do to it also.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2017
  9. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    I setup a small drag strip with a jump to test, worked better than running it on the track.

     
  10. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Starting next week or the week after, or maybe after ordering parts, I intend to take this apart and build/tune it properly.
    Another thing that was irking me was the push rod next to the gear cover, what could I do to make it better.
    After thinking a little, I don't know why it wasn't obvious at the start, I should use the steering connector bar.

    IMG_20171009_155555.jpg


    Currently, I've trimmed down the gear cover to move the shock collar as close to the gear as possible to straighten out the angle of the push rod but at the moment it's in the position indicated by the blue line. By using the steering connector I could straighten it out more by doing as indicated by the orange line, this would allow me to pull the collar back and not need to trim nearly as much of the gear cover as I have already done.
    IMG_20171009_155535.jpg


    There is a downside though, the plastic connector feels rather weak and flimsy. If it's too long it will bend also as indicated below. That said if you try to make the screw hole next to the connector clip, it might be strong enough to do the job. I already have the current method, so I'll try this during the rebuild to see if it works better. Another note, I already received the tap and die for making screw thread, so I can thread the end of the push rod later to attach a lock nut to act as a camber adjustment.

    IMG_20171009_155657.jpg


    Edit:

    So I've prepared the part ready for rebuilding.
    So what I've done is to cut the clip connector from the steering connector bar.
    I then drilled a 1.6mm hole and screwed in the push rod, I also applied some thread lock to help keep it in place and hopefully not let the thread pull out and ruin the hole.

    IMG_20171010_002749.jpg IMG_20171010_002810.jpg
    IMG_20171010_003051.jpg


    As you can see here, I've attached the part to see that it will work. It does, now all I need to do is make/buy a new collar (shaft stopper) and set it slightly further back. This should allow me to replace this gear cover with a fresh one that should not need to be trimmed too much if at all.
    IMG_20171010_003247.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2017
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  11. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    So I started on the rebuild, this will take a few weeks, but that's mostly because of waiting for parts, I can't order the final parts until friday (curse lack of money!)

    I took everything apart and started with some trimming of the chassis and cutting the frp. I then mounted all the base parts. I changed the pillars for the shock, the others were bending too much, so I opted to not trim these ones.

    IMG_20171011_164133.jpg IMG_20171011_164143.jpg IMG_20171011_164238.jpg

    I also trimmed a little off the front of the shell where the push rods will sit, this will allow me to have free movement when I attach the lock nuts.

    IMG_20171011_164303.jpg


    I decided to mount the frp wings backwards, dunno why, just did. It keeps the air guided into the intakes for the motor cooling and I think is the perfect position for the dampers.

    IMG_20171011_165415.jpg IMG_20171011_165434.jpg


    I think tomorrow I'll work on the push rods and arm connectors and edit this post then.
    I have some parts on the way, but I need to order either propeller shaft and carbon crown gears or the full AR gear pack, also a red AR chassis kit for the red gear cover. Maybe some offset tread tires or sponge ones and make my own offset. Haven't decided on that.
    I'm still waiting on these to arrive, red alu sliding dampers front/rear, silver or black (don't remember which) heavy mass damper for the wings and some red/black rollers for the rear (already have some for the front) which I will use on this.


    Edit for update:

    Did some more work today, the red alu stays arrived so I've done them, the front is starting to feel a little high, but I can look into that another time, it's still looking good as far as I care for now.
    Also made new push rod clips so that they can attach more securely to the control arm and the rear damper/brake bar.

    IMG_20171012_171321.jpg IMG_20171012_171331.jpg IMG_20171012_171355.jpg IMG_20171012_171444.jpg IMG_20171012_171459.jpg
    IMG_20171012_181831.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2017
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  12. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Finally got the final parts today, so I was able to push ahead a bit more.
    I was able to mount and stabilise the gears and get the wheels/suspension back on.
    Later/tomorrow I'll get to finishing it off and post more pics.

    IMG_20171024_220129.jpg IMG_20171024_215951.jpg IMG_20171024_215933.jpg

    So at this point, before I attached the wheels, I turned her on and she ran as nice as my other AR.
    After attaching the wheels she started to get a little noisier, but she really starts screaming after you put the suspension/springs on to push the wheels into negative camber.

    I've also been thinking about the pushrods. For now I've reverted back to my original method since I don't have a vice and try as I might, I just can't get the thread cutting started on the other ends of the rods. I also need to make some longer rods from threaded shafts so they have room for the lock nut.
    I've also been thinking, I'll probably try it tomorrow, but you may not need to run the car with springs either since the centrifugal forces of the wheels spinning generally pull the wheels into proper vertical position, this means on the ground you would be at extreme positive camber......more food for thought, but I'll wait until tomorrow when I have proper light.
     
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  13. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    More pictures!

    Setting up the suspension, the alu spacer I used to make the control connector (black ring) I think isn't necessary, better to use the orange control bar that comes with the steering kit like the pink ring. It actually clips on and doesn't rely on physics to keep connected unlike my alu spacer connectors.

    Also I think it would be better to make thread on the rod (green ring) and add lock nut to adjust the camber easier. I used this method in the pictures below because I had issues trying to make the thread, really need a good vice with soft jaws.

    IMG_20171025_145107.jpg IMG_20171025_151145.jpg


    Issues aside, below is final result. The wheels are better vertically aligned with a slight negative camber in rest position. When car is running, the wheels should be running vertically aligned with neutral camber.

    IMG_20171025_151131.jpg IMG_20171025_145159.jpg

    I'm thinking I should probably have trimmed the chassis a bit more and built the bumper on the underside, rather than attaching the stay on top, this would bring it significantly lower and look a bit better. As it is though, I think it works fine if it were to be run as a Street Mini4wd.


    Build log done and issues aside, here's the overall end result.

    20171025_152843.jpg 20171025_152838.jpg 20171025_152949.jpg 20171025_152603.jpg 20171025_153024.jpg 20171025_152506.jpg

    I'll openly admit, it won't compete at high level due to there being a significant friction issue with how the wheels work, but it does run quite well, is still plenty quick and I think should be good both on track or used for Street Mini4wd.

    I hope you guys like this build as much as I enjoyed building it. This has to be one of my better ideas that turned out rather well, I think.

    Oh, and don't forget, this is NOT an AR specific build, the purpose of this build was as proof of concept for full independent suspension on a single shaft chassis. So this Idea will work on any chassis you choose!
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2017
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  14. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    So I wanted to point out a method of being able to change the wheels.
    It will take some modification, need to trim the back of the steering control, the two little tabs on the back (green arrow).
    IMG_20170927_034403.jpg

    After that, need to prep the axle, need 3 parts and a couple springs. You want to assemble them like this:

    IMG_20171117_205847.jpg

    The loop should tuck in between the steering control and the steering mount/chassis.
    Something a little like this:

    IMG_20171117_205706.jpg

    Obviously the gap on the AR will be smaller, but this MS example is the same thing.
    Then to be able to change the wheels to something more common than those nasty orange ones, just double up on 850 bearings with 520 inserted in each of them in each steering control and you can use normal axle mounted wheels.
    The reason to double up on the bearings is to add extra stability so the wheels don't flap around everywhere.

    And there you have it....a full independent suspension single shaft chassis with standard wheels.

    Edit:
    Thinking about bearings, I suppose it would be possible to use the 830/840, not sure which, but the wheels with a neck should be able to slip neatly into one those bearings, that should be quite stable...
    I might get some bearings locally to check this method.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2017
  15. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Just a couple video of the car on the track going over washboards.
    Please remember my track isn't tamiya track and it's lane width is smaller so the car runs a lot more stable than it otherwise should.



    And a super slowed down/Slide show like of the best run of the video above. You should be able to see the suspension working as it goes over the second and third wash boards (wheels will flex in at the bottom and level out upright when on the track again).

     
  16. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    A couple more videos from a different angle. Unfortunately both poor image quality, mainly due to low light.
    Here I'm just doing a simple video for my AR race tuned and AR suspension. It's a simple flat track, single lane approx. 10m with a few washboards.

    Race tuned (blue car) specs:
    hd3
    3.5 gear
    large wheels with low profile tire
    fH9f4G0.jpg


    Suspension (red car) specs:
    hd3
    3.7 gear
    large wheels with large soft offset tread
    20171025_152506.jpg


    120fps, 480p video, my phone would only let me record this speed at this setting due to issues. Maybe I need a new phone.



    This time using 1080p and 60fps...although it don't look like it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2017
  17. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Building a fresh version so I can tidy up a little and go with the axle mod to use normal wheels.
    Spent all day trimming the chassis.

    Cutting plan and initial weight:
    IMG_20171219_155915.jpg IMG_20171219_155904.jpg
    IMG_20171219_155815.jpg



    After cutting/trimming:
    IMG_20171219_220010.jpg IMG_20171219_220044.jpg IMG_20171219_215900.jpg


    Taken the front stay and set it up on the new chassis, changed how it was setup slightly, using the F-MA front under guard, will think about doing something about the screw holding the rollers. Added the under side panels there's also a set of 620 bearings already in the chassis mounts behind the orange upright pivot.

    IMG_20171220_013407.jpg IMG_20171220_013440.jpg


    Been having a mess around with my test axle, check what happens when I assemble the axle and uprights.
    I haven't trimmed the inside of the upright to take double 850 yet and also (white box) haven't trimmed the back of the upright and enlarged the hole. But axle looks like it will work fine.

    IMG_20171220_013137.jpg IMG_20171220_013106.jpg


    Edit:

    Just going to keep expanding this post for now.
    Prepared the uprights, if you check the images below, there's a little lip at the bottom that needs to be removed so the 850 bearings can fit all the way down. Also need to make the hole in the back bigger.

    Before: After:
    IMG_20171220_174342.jpg IMG_20171220_174638.jpg

    IMG_20171220_174653.jpg

    The bearings, as I've already said a few times, I'll be using are the 850/520 combined, 2x per wheel upright. This is done to give extra stability although makes them a little heavier. Doing this method allows me to fit any wheels I want without needing to use the nasty wheels that come with the steering kit.

    IMG_20171220_182355.jpg IMG_20171220_182607.jpg IMG_20171220_183016.jpg


    There is another alternative, I think. Using a wheel with a long neck, you should be able to use an 840 I think to stabilise the wheel like so:

    IMG_20171220_182716.jpg IMG_20171220_182745.jpg

    But I don't have an 840 to try, but seems like a viable method.
    Anyway, moving on.


    I removed the rear setup from the previous chassis and set it up on this new one.

    IMG_20171220_215436.jpg

    I also dumped everything on (not including the gears, didn't have them on hand at the time) to check dry weight:

    IMG_20171220_215618.jpg
    I did weigh the gears, it's about an extra 1.5g so overall dry weight will probably be around 147-149g when finished. A bit on the heavy side I guess but still a quick car and a fun build none the less.

    Here's a final image for this post, a look at roughly what the end car will look like, note I haven't yet prepared the 3 part axle so I've just attached wheels with a single axle and I have yet to mount the shocks also.
    It's going to be a while before I can move forward on this as I'm still waiting on some new threaded shaft and shaft stoppers and also the new 1.2mm drill bits. Soooo, this will probably be finished sometime in the new year, unless the bits arrive sooner.

    IMG_20171220_223252.jpg
    (W.I.P)
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2017
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  18. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Just got the final parts needed for this, but still missing the 1.2mm drill bits so I still can't work on the axles. But I can just about finish everything else that's not part of the transmission.

    Just setup the shock pillars and collars. I even managed to trim the shaft stopper without loosing it this time round, so the gear cover doesn't need to be trimmed this time around. As to the pillars, I found it best to double down on the frp supports, I found just using a single support kept the pillars correctly spaced but didn't prevent them from twisting with enough force, so I added a second to both front and back, this will keep the pillars upright and prevent them from twisting.

    IMG_20171223_153416.jpg IMG_20171223_153717.jpg

    I've also prepared the threaded shafts, but I forgot to take a photo of them. But basically, I've just trimmed them down to 16.50mm and re-threaded the end again.

    Update:

    So here's the prepared threaded shafts and the linkage. Each one has to be tailored to each wheel.

    IMG_20171224_140220.jpg IMG_20171224_140248.jpg

    Here is all the shock and uprights set up, I can remove the uprights later when I build the suspension as they just clip on, no need to remove the shocks. Finally a clean setup with all the shocks squared up.

    IMG_20171224_152102.jpg IMG_20171224_152113.jpg IMG_20171224_152120.jpg


    A couple of images just to show clearances, I may need to trim a little on the back of the shell, but I'll work that out last. The front is set slightly further forward than the previous build, so the shocks rods clear the nose.

    IMG_20171224_152552.jpg IMG_20171224_152632.jpg


    And here is the end result minus the transmission and wheel setup. That will have to happen after Xmas.....curse the drill bits taking forever to arrive.
    Anyway, I'm really happy with all the little adjustments made from the previous build. I've also tested the two part test axle which works perfectly although I haven't tried it under power, so I just hope the loops don't get deformed.

    IMG_20171224_152516.jpg


    And with that, wishing you all a merry xmas and happy new year!! Have lots of fun and stay safe guys.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2017
    Eugene likes this.
  19. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Finally received and broken all my 1.2mm bits, but I did get all the axle holes drilled for this car at least, the MS will have to wait until I get more.
    I got a feeling setting up the gears/axle is going to be a pain now I can see what I'm working with. That aside, I'm down to the last bit, setting up the gears and trimming a set of tires.

    So I've now finished the build. I'll update this post with the final build parts and tomorrow I'll make some photo of the end result.

    First up, need to trim the neck of the wheel down a touch more, make it flat with the rim.
    IMG_20180108_140134.jpg
    IMG_20180108_152854.jpg

    I didn't use the tires in the image above, I trimmed them too low, so I made another set and cleaned them up, those will be in the final showcase images.

    Next, prepared the axles, I linked a single wheel axle to the main axle to begin, the other axle will be attached later.
    IMG_20180108_140214.jpg

    I began with attaching the gear side wheel and upright first since this will be used to keep the main axle in position after mounting gears.
    IMG_20180108_163443.jpg

    The clearance for the loop between the chassis and upright is just perfect. Although, I did leave the wheel a little loose at first to allow me to be able to attach the other side later. The gear setup I moved over from the previous build which was already setup. Best to make sure everything meshes before assembling everything

    IMG_20180108_155708.jpg


    Next I attached the loop on the other end, this will hold the whole thing in place

    IMG_20180108_155823.jpg

    IMG_20180108_155841.jpg

    With that done, I can now focus on attaching the other wheel axle and the upright and wheel.
    Attaching the other axle can be tedious and frustrating task with so little space to work with. To aid the process I removed the upright mount, I'll clean up the glue and reapply some more to reattach the mount.

    IMG_20180108_160306.jpg

    Finally, put the upright and wheel on. Need something fine yet strong with a flat side so you can get in and push the axle further into the wheel. And finally finished.
    IMG_20180108_163553.jpg

    Just requires setting the wheels tighter to hold everything in position and a little tweaking of the shock rod to get only a slight camber. I think I may have mixed up negative/positive camber throughout the entire post...ooops, but essentially, a slight positive camber so the wheels are splayed out a touch at the top compared to the lower wheel. Here's an example of the camber, it's very slight, but just enough that when the car is running on the track, the wheels stay vertical. Will need to tweak it a little to balance them all out, but for now it's all good.

    20180109_134251_001.jpg

    I was also able to power the car and it sounds so much better compared to using the wheels that come with the steering kit. That said, it's still a touch loud, but sounds silky smooth. I guess I need to clean the track so I can give it a test run.

    Anywho, time for a well earned break I think. Look forward to the showcase images tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2018
    Cefiro likes this.
  20. Drew

    Drew Carbon Fiber Dust

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    Alrighty, here's the final post for the build log, there's no more after this. It's been a fun build, taken quite some time with waiting on parts and tools to finish, but the end result is well worth it. I'll start by sharing the dry weight of the car, perhaps a bit heavy but I couldn't get any closer to such a well rounded number even if I tried:

    20180109_134033.jpg

    Literally a perfect 150g xD Wasn't too far out from what I guessed, 147-149g.
    Here's a small video of the suspension working with car both off and on. I haven't done a drop test since it's needs to be turned on and have forward momentum for the suspension to work correctly, but needless to say, there's very little bounce and good recovery.


    Anyway, here's the photo shoot, enjoy:

    20180109_133634.jpg 20180109_133541.jpg 20180109_133554.jpg 20180109_133609.jpg 20180109_133621.jpg 20180109_133734.jpg 20180109_133757.jpg 20180109_133643.jpg 20180109_133718.jpg 20180109_133527.jpg 20180109_133835.jpg

    As I've stated before in this thread, this suspension setup isn't just meant for AR, with a little tweaking, this setup can be built on all single shaft motor chassis. I hope you all like the final build and hope for people to spread the word that suspension is not only limited to Pro/Midship cars any longer, although whether it is competitive or not is another matter, but I do suspect this will be competitive in at least Street Mini. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.
     
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